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	<title>GRS Rents - Home and Commercial Project Tips &#187; Tool Safety</title>
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		<title>Trencher safety</title>
		<link>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/08/17/trencher-safety/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/08/17/trencher-safety/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:19:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe R</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contraactor]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/08/17/trencher-safety/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Landscape Safety Series: Using Trenchers Safely1
BEFORE USING THE TRENCHER
Read the operator’s manual before attempting to
operate the machine. Be sure you understand it
completely.
Dress properly for the job. Wear snug-fitting, sturdy
pants and shirt, safety shoes, safety helmet, safety
goggles or screen, and hearing protection.
Check the machine for loose, missing, or broken
parts. Tighten, repair, or replace as needed before
using.
Check [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Landscape Safety Series: Using Trenchers Safely1<br />
BEFORE USING THE TRENCHER<br />
Read the operator’s manual before attempting to<br />
operate the machine. Be sure you understand it<br />
completely.<br />
Dress properly for the job. Wear snug-fitting, sturdy<br />
pants and shirt, safety shoes, safety helmet, safety<br />
goggles or screen, and hearing protection.<br />
Check the machine for loose, missing, or broken<br />
parts. Tighten, repair, or replace as needed before<br />
using.<br />
Check all safety devices such as seat belts, roll-over<br />
protective structures (ROPS), shields, warning lights,<br />
etc., to see that they are in place and working.<br />
Read and heed the safety warning decals on the<br />
machine.<br />
Check for hydraulic leaks with a piece of wood or<br />
cardboard. Never use your hand as pinpoint leaks<br />
can penetrate the skin.<br />
When checking radiator coolant, cover the cap with<br />
a cloth to protect yourself from escaping steam.<br />
Open the cap slightly to release pressure, and then<br />
open the rest of the way. Allow engine to cool<br />
before adding any needed coolant.<br />
Fill the fuel tank with engine stopped and cool. Do<br />
not smoke. Be sure there are no sparks or open<br />
flames nearby. If you must refuel during operation,<br />
allow the engine to cool a few minutes before doing<br />
so.<br />
Check for underground utilities in the digging area.<br />
You should request Blue Stake service at least two<br />
days in advance of digging. Don’t take chances. You<br />
could lose your life if you strike a gas or electric<br />
line.<br />
Check for the presence of overhead utility lines as<br />
they can be equally as dangerous.<br />
OPERATING THE TRENCHER<br />
Use care when mounting riding trenchers. Be sure<br />
your hands and shoes are clean and dry. Use the<br />
handrails, not control levers, to guide yourself.<br />
Fasten the seat belt and adjust the seat to a<br />
comfortable position.<br />
Warn others away from the machine and work area<br />
especially children and pets.<br />
Be sure the transmission and other controls are in<br />
the neutral position. Set the brakes on all models.<br />
Start the engine and test all controls.<br />
Lower the trencher boom within a few inches of the<br />
soil.<br />
Engage the chain at slow speed. Be sure you can<br />
control the trencher as the chain can jerk the<br />
machine quickly.<br />
Operate riding trenchers only from the seat. Keep<br />
hands and feet clear of chain and augers on walkbehind<br />
models.<br />
Use caution when operating on slopes as the<br />
machine will want to work down the slope.<br />
Never make sharp turns while digging.<br />
Never adjust or attempt to free a jammed chain<br />
while it is running. Always stop the machine and<br />
engine first.<br />
Trenchers are one person machines &#8212; never allow<br />
any riders.<br />
When raising the boom you should disengage the<br />
chain just as it clears the trench.<br />
Follow these steps when shutting the machine down<br />
for any length of time:<br />
1. Lower the trenching boom and attachments to the<br />
ground.<br />
2. Set the parking brake or block the wheels.<br />
3. Put the transmission in park or neutral.<br />
4. Stop the engine.<br />
5. Cycle the hydraulic controls to relieve any<br />
pressure.<br />
6. Remove the ignition key.<br />
7. Dismount carefully using steps and handholds.<br />
TRANSPORTING TRENCHERS<br />
Follow the manufacturer’s manual for specific<br />
loading and unloading procedures.<br />
Be sure all required tie downs, safety chains, etc.,<br />
are properly secured.<br />
If driving the trencher on public roads make certain<br />
that all warning signs, lights, and flags are in place<br />
and visible. The Slow Moving Vehicle (SMV)<br />
emblem must be visible to vehicles approaching<br />
from the rear</p>
<p>1. This document is 8831-Q, a series of the the Cooperative Extension, the University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85719. Publication date:</p>
<p>2. Lance Fluegel, Safety Coordinator and Bradley Rein, Engineering Specialist, the College of Agriculture, the University of Arizona, Tucson AZ 85719.<br />
The University of Arizona College of Agriculture is an Equal Opportunity employer authorized to provide research, educational information<br />
and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to sex, race, religion, color, national origin, age, Vietnam<br />
Era Veteran’s status, or handicapping condition.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Lawn Aeration</title>
		<link>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/04/16/lawn-aeration/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/04/16/lawn-aeration/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:31:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe R</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[GRS Rents]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[spring projects]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/04/16/lawn-aeration/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Lawn Aeration
Lawn Aeration is a process that perforates the soil with small holes that allow water, air, and fertilizer through to get closer to the roots. This enables the roots to grow deeply, producing a healthier more vigorous lawn. Your lawn shows signs of stress and the need for aeration if it doesn&#8217;t turn green [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lawn Aeration</p>
<p>Lawn Aeration is a process that perforates the soil with small holes that allow water, air, and fertilizer through to get closer to the roots. This enables the roots to grow deeply, producing a healthier more vigorous lawn. Your lawn shows signs of stress and the need for aeration if it doesn&#8217;t turn green after fertilizing, or there is a presence of many worn areas throughout your lawn. Lawns only need to be aerated about once a year, and some, if they are only receiving moderate maintenance, need aeration about every two years. If your lawn has a problem with thatch (the composting grass from past mowing), it may be necessary to aerate a couple times a year instead of once as required by most lawns.</p>
<p>Thatch eventually forms a layer that acts as a barrier over the soil. Using a lawn aeration device to break through the thatch is much easier and less drastic than dethatching the entire lawn. An aeration device consists of a special tool that removes plugs from the soil. They&#8217;re available in motorized or manual tools, however, unless you&#8217;re aerating a small area, the manual tool is not recommended. These can usually be rented from landscaping companies or a tool rental store at a reasonable rate. There are two types of tools that are marketed as lawn aerators. One will simply punch holes in the soil, but will not remove plugs. This will only compact the soil around the holes and the holes will probably fill back in quickly. It&#8217;s recommended that you use the type that will actually remove the soil plugs, instead of poking holes in the soil.</p>
<p>An effective tool should produce holes at least three quarters of an inch in diameter and penetrate three inches deep. Also, the plugs should be no more than three inches apart. Aerate on a day that the ground is moist, but not soppy. If you aerate soil that&#8217;s too wet, or too dry, the aerating device will not penetrate the soil fully. The plugs that are left behind with aerating can be disposed of a couple ways. The best is probably just leaving them on the surface to dry for a day, and then mowing them to provide a beneficial top layer to your lawn. Other ways of disposing are raking them to break them up after they&#8217;re fully dried, or leaving them in your lawn to break down naturally. However, leaving them can make your lawn unsightly for a couple weeks, while the plugs are breaking down.<br />
Article by www.greatlandscapingideas.com</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Why Rent Equipment?</title>
		<link>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/03/01/why-rent-equipment/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.grsrents.com/2010/03/01/why-rent-equipment/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 16:26:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[About Us]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.grsrents.com/?p=37</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here at GRS Rents we&#8217;ve been helping our customers get there projects done faster, with less work, and with way less hassle for nearly 20 years.  But the question for many people remains; why should I rent equipment?
It&#8217;s simple: whether you&#8217;re tackling the simplest of projects or complicated construction or remodeling work, there is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here at GRS Rents we&#8217;ve been helping our customers get there projects done faster, with less work, and with way less hassle for nearly 20 years.  But the question for many people remains; why should I rent equipment?</p>
<p>It&#8217;s simple: whether you&#8217;re tackling the simplest of projects or complicated construction or remodeling work, there is almost always a tool to make your project easier, safer, or more affordable.  GRS Rents has already done the homework in finding these tools, buying them, storing them, maintaining them, etc. Further, we have a complete staff of rental coordinators to help you match awesome tools to your projects. Consider GRS Rents to be your &#8216;toy box of tools.&#8217;  Our wide assortment of inventory allows us to be your one-stop shop for most any project.  We rent everything from Bobcats, Excavators, Utility Track Loaders (Dingos), and landscape tractors to pressure washers, pipe wrenches, and floor mops.  If you need something &#8211; GRS Rents is likely to have it!</p>
<p>Tool renting lets you:</p>
<p>    * Use the appropriate tool for for the job you&#8217;re working on. Stop using screw-drivers for chisels, shovels for post holes, and hammers to break concrete! Save time, money, and protect your safety by renting from GRS Rents.<br />
    * You can get started right away by working from helpful instructions and tips from GRS Rents staff, rather than spenduing time reading a manual or hunting info on the internet.<br />
    * High quality, commercial quality equipment is expensive to buy, but extremely affordable to rent.  Did you know you can rent a $450 hammer drill for less than $23?<br />
    * By renting tools from our Crystal Lake, East Dundee, or Marengo Stores you don&#8217;t have to store them in your garage! Save room for the fun stuff!</p>
<p>When you&#8217;re planning your next home improvement project, consider using the right tool for the job.  Renting from GRS Rents can save you money, allow you to use the right tool for the right job (safety first!), and help your project done faster!</p>
<p>Thanks for reading! We hope to talk to you soon!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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