Lawn Repair and Renovation

This thin stand of grass is in need of renovation.

An acceptable quality lawn is the goal of many homeowners. With proper establishment and care, this goal can be achieved. Unfortunately, situations may occur that lead to a thin, damaged, or dead lawn in need of repair or renovation.

Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps implementing proper mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that’s required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.

Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over. The decision of which level to choose is based on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem.

For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder, which is a specialized machine that will cut slits into existing grass and then drops seed into those slits, is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.

When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. Core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Core aerifying machines will pull up numerous plugs of soil about the diameter of a pencil, making holes into the lawn. Allow the plugs to remain on the soil surface. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.

Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototil it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, peat, etc. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures (refer to fact sheets 1 through 6 of this series) to get the new lawn off to a good start.

8 Basic Steps to Paver Patio
Do-it-yourself Construction

1. The first step is to determine the size or area of the paver patio by square foot. This will figure into the estimate of materials needed later. Mark off the area with a can of white spray paint, slightly larger to allow for paver edge restraints and a footing base at the borders of the patio.

Paver Information

2. Estimate the materials needed, chose desired pavers, here is a site that describes how to estimate pavers, how many per square feet for some common pavers Shapes & Details of Pavers. Most paver and concrete dealers will let you know how many per square feet for there products. Also estimate base material and sand, approximately 1 1/2 yards of gravel(3/4 ” quarry process)per 100 square feet, this will support a 4″ compacted base. Sand – a fine mason sand, about 1/4 the amount of the gravel base should be plenty. Having more is always better than not having enough base material.

Paver tools 3. Digging and preparing for a good paver base is important and will be the most time consuming process. Excavate by shovel or loader if available, use local digging laws to make sure to avoid any buried cable. Make base 6″-8″ below desired height of patio, the pavers will take 2″ of that so the gravel base under the pavers will be 4″- 6″. If possible use a landscape fabric under gravel for better support and protect base from soil. Some areas may require a deeper base due to poor soil or recent disturbed soil from new house construction. Next – get the gravel base in by wheelbarrow, shovel, loader, and rake it out to approximate level.

Paver Patio Base

Paver Technique

4. Grade the patio base with a 2X4 to get an even and sloped base for water runoff. slope slightly to where desired water should run, use about a quarter bubble technique on a 4 foot level, make sure sloping the correct way. For larger patios, 2 2X4s may be needed so they would have to be nailed together. If your patio is next to a concrete driveway or bordering concrete or timbers, then use a modified 2X 4 to grade along that border(see picture on left). Take the time to get level, and re-grade after compaction is done (next step).

Paver Plate Compactor 5. Use a plate compactor or like compaction device to get good a solid base for the pavers. If the gravel is too dry, wet it down some with a garden hose to make it pack better. Grade additional times after each compaction until complete.

Paver Mason Sand

Paver Patio Fine Grade

6. Fine grade with mason sand the same way grading was done earlier, this final grade evens out the rough gravel grade and allows for a nice even base for the pavers. This is only a quarter inch or less layer of sand to maintain the proper grade, not an inch of sand like you may have heard of, remember the proper grade and slope has already been done with an easy to work with gravel base.

Lay the Pavers

Paver Diamond Saw
7. Lay the pavers in the desired pattern, for pattern ideas see resource page, get the pavers tight as possible, start from a point or house foundation to allow for the best looking pattern. Keep in mind pavers will need to be cut with a saw and diamond paver blade if patio area has curves or obstacles. simple square patios may not need any cutting. to cut pavers, use a measuring technique or measure with paver in place and mark.

Paver Plastic Edge

Paver Patio Example

8. Finally, use a plastic edge restraint and secure with spikes about 2′ apart or less for more strength. Then sweep with the same mason sand, the finer the better, it will sweep into the cracks and be a dry mortar so to speak and secure the pavers. The dryer the sand, the easier it will be to sweep in. Use the compactor to pack the paver patio and allow the sand to fall in the cracks better. I would suggest to put cardboard or fabric under the compactor to not damage pavers and stop the vibrating noise too, I bungee cord cardboard to the bottom of the compactor, however after a few times the cardboard will be worn, but will work for a single use. Sweep sand again until the paver joints will take no more sand. And the last thing would be to fill black dirt around the edge to support and landscape to your desire, seed grass or rock (this covers the plastic edging. See the photo gallery for examples. Visit the Patio Store for items before and after your patio is completed.

Article Author: Hildebrand Construction
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Paver Patio Discussion Forum on this Article!

Caring for Your Carpets is Easy as 1-2-3

The appearance and life of your carpet depends on the care it receives. Proper cleaning helps safeguard your carpet investment by keeping you from having to replace it before its time.
Cleaning your carpet the right way does not have to be difficult. It is important to use the right methods, equipment and cleaning products. Using improper methods, equipment or products can result in faster re-soiling, the reappearance of stains, or more serious damage to your carpet.
Maintaining your carpets starts with prevention. When possible, have people remove their shoes before walking on carpet. Also, use mats at entries to prevent moisture and dirt from getting on the carpet. Then clean and maintain your carpets following these 3 simple steps:
1.Dry Soil Removal: Regular vacuuming is the simplest and most important maintenance activity you can do to keep your carpet in the best possible condition. Ever wonder why worn carpet gets matted down and show visible traffic lanes? It is the abrasive nature of dirt and foot traffic that actually causes permanent damage / fraying of the carpet fibers causing them to loose their resiliency. Remember, vacuum, vacuum, vacuum!!!!
2.Clean Up Spills Fast: The faster you clean up a spill, the less likely it will turn into a permanent stain. When a spill occurs, blot up as much as possible with a white towel. Then, spray plain water through a spray bottle onto the area and blot again. Repeat the process until the towel comes up clean. If you own a wet dry vacuum, use it to pull as much moisture out of the carpet as possible or if possible, rent a good quality carpet extractor.
3.Extraction Deep Cleaning: Use a good quality extractor that applies a cleaning solution and then picks up the soiled solution. Use a cleaning chemical that is safe for stain resistant carpet and is designed for extraction cleaning. Some cleaning products can leave a sticky residue that can attract dirt and cause carpets to get dirty faster after cleaning.

Extraction Cleaning Tips:
Pre-Spray Traffic Lanes: Areas that are heavily trafficked and visibly dirty should be pre-sprayed prior to extracting to give cleaning chemicals more time to loosen up dirt. When extracting these areas, make one pass dispensing the cleaning solution followed by a pass with just the vacuum.
Use proper dilutions: Read the label and follow dilution recommendations. Using more than necessary won’t make your carpets any cleaner.
Use warm-hot tap water in the extractor: Using warm or hot tap water improves cleaning performance.
Allow Carpets Ample Time to Dry: Don’t allow people to walk on carpets until completely dry. To speed drying, promote air flow with a fan.

Following these steps will make your carpets look good and make them last for many years to come.

By Murray Anderson
Installing your own wall to wall carpet isn’t a job everybody wants to take on. It can be hard on both your knees and your back, and if you don’t get it right, everybody can see where you messed up. However, installing carpet isn’t “rocket science,” and by using some specialized tools (available at most tool rental outlets) and being prepared to take your time, installing carpet is a job you can do yourself.

What You’ll Need:

Tackless strips
Stapler
Hammer
Utility knife
Chalk line
Measuring tape
Rolling pin (or rental seam roller)
Work gloves
Safety glasses
Knee pads

Rental Tools:

Knee kicker
Power stretcher
Seam cutter
Seaming iron
Seam tape
Wall trimmer
Strip cutter
Seam roller

Getting Ready

Your first step is to get rid of the old carpet. Start by removing the moldings around the floor and take the door off the entrance, so you can get the old carpet out and the new carpet in easier. Give the old carpet a good vacuuming so you won’t be breathing in dust, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 18 to 24 inches wide.

Start at one end and pull the carpet off the tackless strips and roll it up in sections. Some people feel that you can reuse the existing underlay, but in most cases it will be worn out just like the carpet, so you’re better off getting rid of it as well.

Remove the existing tackless strips and make sure the floor is clean and dry. This is a good time to check your subfloor and securely fasten any floorboards that may be loose so they won’t squeak under the new carpet (use 1 1/2″ screws into the underlying floor joists).

Install new tackless strips around the perimeter of the room, but not in front of doorways. Leave a space of about 1/2″ between the strips and the wall, and be sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They’re called tackless strips even though they have two or three rows or very sharp tacks, because using these “tackless strips” means you don’t need to “tack” carpet down.) At corners, make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other.

Laying the Underpad

Put the underpad down in strips that overlap the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each other – don’t overlap them – then staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tackless strip. Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams.

Laying the Carpet

To install carpet properly, you need to start with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by 4 to 6 inches. The overlay can then be trimmed so the carpet fits properly. To cut your first section, measure the room at its longest point and add 6 inches to that measurement. Mark the back of your carpet on both edges with that measurement and join the two marks with a chalk line. Fold the carpet over on itself, and using a straight edge and a sharp utility knife, cut through the backside of your carpet. Be sure to place a piece of scrap board underneath your cut line to protect the underlying carpet.

Seams

If your room is wide enough that you’re going to need another piece of carpet, follow the same process with the second piece – measure, mark and trim. Be sure the carpet pile is running the same way in both pieces, and that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall by 4 to 6 inches, as well as overlapping the first piece of carpet by 4 to 6 inches. (Try to layout your carpet pieces so the seams won’t be in noticeable areas, but obviously sometimes that just isn’t possible.)

Where the carpet pieces will join, overlap the two pieces, and then using a utility knife or a rented seam cutter, cut through both pieces of carpet, ensuring the edges will match exactly. After cutting the carpet, center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where they join, adhesive side up. Use the seaming iron to activate the adhesive (the iron goes on the tape, not on top of the carpet), and then butt the edges together and seal the seam with a rolling pin or a carpet roller.

Attaching the Carpet

Use a knee kicker to attach the carpet along one edge. A knee kicker is a solid metal tool about 18″ long with “teeth” that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded “butt” on the other. Place the toothed end of the kicker about 3″ from the wall and drive your knee forcefully into the padded end of the tool. This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab it and hold it firmly in place.

A carpet stretcher will finish attaching the carpet. A carpet stretcher is similar to knee kicker, but much longer. Put one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet is already attached and place the other end about 6 inches from the far wall. The carpet stretcher also has teeth to grip the carpet, and when you push on the activation lever, it will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip near the far wall.

Work your way around the room stretching the carpet over the tackless strips, and trim the carper near the wall with a utility knife or a wall trimmer.

Finishing Up

Using a stair tool, tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tackless strips and the wall. At the doorway, trim the carpet so the edge is centered under the closed door and install a door edge strip. Finally, cut any vent openings and install the molding on the baseboards.

That’s it. Stretch your back, check to see if your knees still work, and then take some time to admire what all your hard work has accomplished.
Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer with articles published in both the United States and Canada. He has written on a wide range of topics, but specializes in home maintenance and how to’s.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/howtoinstallcarpet#ixzz0mV09bVTX

Lawn Aeration

Lawn Aeration is a process that perforates the soil with small holes that allow water, air, and fertilizer through to get closer to the roots. This enables the roots to grow deeply, producing a healthier more vigorous lawn. Your lawn shows signs of stress and the need for aeration if it doesn’t turn green after fertilizing, or there is a presence of many worn areas throughout your lawn. Lawns only need to be aerated about once a year, and some, if they are only receiving moderate maintenance, need aeration about every two years. If your lawn has a problem with thatch (the composting grass from past mowing), it may be necessary to aerate a couple times a year instead of once as required by most lawns.

Thatch eventually forms a layer that acts as a barrier over the soil. Using a lawn aeration device to break through the thatch is much easier and less drastic than dethatching the entire lawn. An aeration device consists of a special tool that removes plugs from the soil. They’re available in motorized or manual tools, however, unless you’re aerating a small area, the manual tool is not recommended. These can usually be rented from landscaping companies or a tool rental store at a reasonable rate. There are two types of tools that are marketed as lawn aerators. One will simply punch holes in the soil, but will not remove plugs. This will only compact the soil around the holes and the holes will probably fill back in quickly. It’s recommended that you use the type that will actually remove the soil plugs, instead of poking holes in the soil.

An effective tool should produce holes at least three quarters of an inch in diameter and penetrate three inches deep. Also, the plugs should be no more than three inches apart. Aerate on a day that the ground is moist, but not soppy. If you aerate soil that’s too wet, or too dry, the aerating device will not penetrate the soil fully. The plugs that are left behind with aerating can be disposed of a couple ways. The best is probably just leaving them on the surface to dry for a day, and then mowing them to provide a beneficial top layer to your lawn. Other ways of disposing are raking them to break them up after they’re fully dried, or leaving them in your lawn to break down naturally. However, leaving them can make your lawn unsightly for a couple weeks, while the plugs are breaking down.
Article by www.greatlandscapingideas.com

GRS Rents is a diverse business – we rent everything from pneumatic nailers to backhoes, but did you know we have an entire Chicago Area special event rental division?

Gala Events, a division of GRS Rents, is a full service special event rental company.  Gala Events services special events from backyard BBQs to regional air shows; regularly accommodating the event rental needs of hundreds of customers each year.  So, what sets Gala Events apart from the competition in Chicagoland?  Gala Events has invested in the highest quality of facilities and rental inventory to ensure that when you rent from Gala Events – you receive the best value for your dollar.  Everytime.

Gala Events is headquartered in Marengo, IL.  In 2008 we constructed a purpose-built   12,600 warehouse building with an in-house commercial tent & moonwalk washing system.  Our facility allows for truck loading via loading docks, instead of rental items being drug into trucks manually.  All inventory is regularly maintained, tents are washed on a constant schedule, and moonwalks are inspected upon every return.  We operate our own in-house linen processing, pressing, and washing operation.  We operate our own in-house dish, glassware, and silverware operation.

What this means for you is that when you rent from Gala Events you will receive the whitest tents, the best smelling moonwalks, and the best quality accessories for your event. Whether you’re planning a wedding, company event, backyard bbq, blockparty, or kids birthday party – GALA Events has what you need for your next event!

Gala Events delivers to the entire Chicagoland Area, including: Algonquin, Barrington, Buffalo Grove, Cary, Carpentersville, Chicago,  Crystal Lake, Dekalb, Dundee, East Dundee, Elgin, Highland Park, Hoffman Estates, Inverness, Lake Zurich, Lake Barrington, Marengo, McHenry, Prairie Grove, Schaumburg, Richmond, Rockford, Spring Grove, & more!  Gala Events also regularly delivers Wisconsin Party Rentals to Madison, Milwaukee, Lake Geneva, and Waukesha.  You can reach Gala Events at 888-477-7687 or directly at 815-477-8080.  Their website is www.TheGalaEvents.com.

It’s about that season again.  The snow melts off, the grass is looking kind of rough, and you’re already thinking about the projects you want to tackle this year.  Well, to get you started, here’s some spring lawn care tips that are sure to help you grow some of the greenest grass in your neighborhood.

• Aeration: A core aerator will pull 2-3″ plugs of soil from your turf.  Most all of the aerators that GRS Rents carries will space the holes about 3-4″ apart and deposit the plugs on top of the surface.  It is recommended by Horticulturists that “[t]urf soil should be aerated at least once a year on heavy compacted or clay soils.”¹ Early spring, when the soil is moist, is a great time to aerate.  Using a rental aerator on your lawn allows air, moisture, and nutrients to penetrate deep into the root zone of the lawn.

• De Thatching (Lawn Combing): Plan to dethach your lawn in the spring as well.  Excessive thatch in a lawn can cause stress on your lawns root system, leading to more problems in the summer time.  Lawn dethatchers come in one basic size, ~20″ deck, that pull the thatch to the surface.  Some models that GRS Rents carry have bagging units attached to them, other models allow you to simply rake up the thatch when you’re done.

• Mowing: It may seem obvious, but you should cut your grass once it exceeds 2.5″ in height.  This practice will keep the lawn from stressing and will help avoid disease. If the grass does get too tall, consider using a bag-style mower to avoid excessive thatch buildup in the lawn.  Experts reccomend mower blades be sharpened a couple times a year to ensure a clean cut.  Conveniently, GRS Rents offers mower blade sharpening at all of our locations.

• Edging & Trimming: Take the time in the Spring, before growth takes off, to trim out of control bushes or trees.  It is also an easy time to edge sidewalks, flower beds, and driveways.  We carry an assortment of tools like sidewalk edgers, bed edgers, hedge trimmers, chainsaws, chippers, and more to help you make these jobs a piece of cake.

While these are just a few tips to Spring Lawn care, they should give you a great start to enjoying a beautiful lawn all summer long!  If you have questions about your upcoming projects, give GRS Rents a call at 888-477-7687.  Our helpful staff would love to help you get the most out of your spring projects!

¹ Robson, David. “Spring LawnCare Guide.” <http://web.extension.illinois.edu/regions/lawnandgarden/SpringLawnCareGuide05.pdf>.

Here at GRS Rents we work with customers to find the best equipment solutions for their upcoming projects.  We do our very best to completely understand your projects so that we can ensure you end up with the right equipment – the first time!  How do we do this; you might wonder?  Well, it’s quite simple! We take the time to speak with you and completely understand your project.  We hope that you’ll take our questions as an assurance that we’re working hard for you; not an annoyance while talking to a guy at the rental store.

Here’s what we’re likely to ask:
1) What type of project are you working on?  – We want to understand the application for the equipment you’re asking for.  We bring in new equipment all the time and may have a new machine that you’ve never seen before!

2) Do you have any special needs for this equipment? Specific features that you’re expecting?  – The GRS Rents staff wants to ensure that the equipment we supply you with completely fits your expectations.  We hope you’ll take the time to completely inform us of any specific features you need on the equipment you’re ordering.  This information will help ensure that you get what you’re expecting from GRS Rents.

3) Have you or the person that will be using the equipment used this type of equipment before?  – It doesn’t matter if you order your equipment from our Crystal Lake Rental Store, Marengo Rental Store, or East Dundee Rental Store – We want to make sure that whoever is using the equipment knows how to operate it safely and with all available features!

4) How long do you think you’ll need the equipment for? – We’re taking the equipment out of rental inventory specifically for you! Let us know how long you’ll need it for to help us accurately plan rental equipment for all of our customers!

So, you see, when the staff at GRS Rents wants to talk about your project with you – we’re just trying to help! We want to envision the work being done and confirm that everything will go according to plan.  Stop by GRS Rents in Crystal Lake, Marengo, or East Dundee or just give us a call at 888-477-7687 to plan your next project!

You can reach each store directly at:
GRS Rents – East Dundee: 847-428-7070
GRS Rents – Crystal Lake: 815-477-8888
GRS Rents – Marengo: 815-568-1100

Thanks!